This Italian Jeweller Makes the Old New Again
Image: @buccellatimilan
Buccellati has become known as one of the finest jewellers in the world, with a history that spans over a century. The ancient techniques, detailed engravings and expert craftsmanship are what set Buccellati apart and are evident to see in the brand's recent Opera collection.
Everything You Need to Know About Buccellati Jewellery
The History
Legendary goldsmith Mario Buccellati first opened up shop in Milan in 1919, expanding to Rome and Florence before hopping across the pond and opening a store on New York’s famous Fifth Avenue in 1954. The brand has since expanded with shops located in far-flung destinations including Capri, Paris, San Francisco and Seoul.
Image: Buccellati
The Buccellati business has been passed down over generations, with Mario’s grandson Andrea now the company’s Honorary President and Creative Director. In 2014, Andrea’s daughter, Lucrezia, joined as Buccellati’s Co-Creative Director and US Ambassador—becoming the first female designer of the house.
The Techniques
You will be able to spot a Buccellati piece a mile away. Each piece, whether a ring, earring, bracelet or necklace, is both distinctive and incredibly detailed.
Image: Buccellati
Buccellati engravers are known as the masters of ancient techniques, with pieces taking anywhere from a few days to a few months to complete.
The team of highly skilled artisans employ techniques such as: Rigato, the engraving of meticulous parallel lines; segrinato, engraving in multiple directions to create overlapping textures; and ornato, a technique that incorporates decorative elements based on forms found in nature.
As Mario’s son Gianmaria once said, Buccellati is about “creating perfect objects with techniques that are rarely used anymore and choosing to work with extraordinary stones”.
These laborious engraving techniques, unique to Buccellati, can be observed throughout the Renaissance period and have the incredible ability to “transform precious metals into fine fabrics such as tulle, linen, silk or lace.”
Image: Buccellati
The Opera Collection
Buccellati’s Opera Collection includes a selection of exquisite earrings, bracelets, rings and necklaces. The collection “is inspired by Italian Renaissance culture: The idea of absolute symmetry and the typical repetition of a decorative motif to create pleasing visual effects.”
The jeweller’s famous logo is the protagonist and inspiration behind the collection, divided into four distinct categories.
1. Opera Tulle
The most recent range from the brand, Opera Tulle focuses on Buccellati’s iconic tulle decoration, where pieces are engraved to look like tulle fabric. The ever so elegant Opera Tulle Ring is set in yellow gold with mesmerising mother-of-pearl logo element and “Tulle raggiera” pattern.
bucellati, opera tulle ring (Upon Request)
2.Opera Gold
The pieces in the Opera Gold designation utilise diamonds and yellow, white and pink gold in a series of long necklaces, button earrings, bracelets, bangles and rings. The Opera Bangle Bracelet is a standout piece with a white gold band, a central element in yellow gold with diamonds set in the centre.
buccellati, opera bangle bracelet (upon Request)
3.Opera Full Pavé
Buccellati's Opera Full Pavé pieces are a series of bejewelled pendants, necklaces and rings, with white gold surfaces and a glimmering pavé of diamonds. The Opera Full Pavé Pendant Earrings are set in white gold and are dripping in delicate diamonds.
buccellati, Opera Full Pavé Pendant Earrings (Upon Request)
4.Opera High Jewellery
This is the grandest series of the collection, with an array of opulent rings, cuff bracelets, diamond laden pendant earrings and dazzling necklaces fit for royalty. The range is described as "extreme Renaissance," combining voluptuous excess with grand, centuries-old tradition.
The Opera Necklace is the collection’s showstopper with its incomparable design and exhibition of goldsmithing excellence. The necklace is an impressive openwork garland in white gold, encrusted with round diamonds. With a 16-carat faceted tourmaline in its centre, the striking pendant can also be converted into a glamorous brooch.
buccellati, Opera Necklace (Upon Request)
Speaking of jewellery, have you Swarovski’s recent upgrade?
Author Bio:
Jennifer Palframan
Jen is a South Africa born, Sydney-based lifestyle writer and blogger. She is a long-time word lover and storyteller—passionate about travel, tech, fashion, and food.
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